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Eventually, everything must end. Vacations among them. Work beckons. The need to make money again beckons.

We had to drive back to Portland. Big sigh.

Tonight, I think I will end my story with some of the random photos taken over the course of our trip (that didn’t fit in anywhere else).

Murphy’s “photo-bomb” with “Dad” and the box Dad came in.

I didn’t even know I had this photo. I was reviewing all my photos late last night and thought: “WHAT?!” And then I started laughing. My dad might not appreciate this photo, but my MOM would have loved it.

The view from Hinckey Summit, south toward Paradise Valley. This is the “permanent” view my parents have of the world (summer version – winter is a different story).

There’s a natural arch in the basalt that rises over my parents’ ashes.

Life and Death in the high range: some bird had a feast of fritillary butterflies. Guess they were yummy, indeed.

Living butterflies dotted the mountain. I haven’t even tried to key them out: I know they are fritillaries, but that is it.

And birds like them.

 

 

Wildflowers on the arid mountain. I can name some of them and I should try to look them up, but not tonight. Buckwheat, Indian paintbrush. penstemmon, trumpet flower. There were lupins blooming, too. Spring comes very late to the alpine meadows.

Deserted Ranger Station with the Bunk House in back.

Once long ago, we camped there. I don’t remember how old I was. I remember that my parents hauled the mattresses out of the house and shook them to evict the mice and their babies. We children were told to stomp on the baby mice to kill them.

I burst into tears.

I don’t judge my parents: they lived in a different world. Mice are a plague. And I agree with them. I just could not stomp on the baby mice. It’s that sensitive thing.

Even today I would find a different way to kill the mice, one that didn’t involve me. I know: what a whiner! Mice – especially deer mice which these were most likely – carry Hanta Virus. And I hate mice in mattresses. But I was a little girl and my mind didn’t work that way then.

Chocolate Mountain. I’ll let you figure out how it got that name.

We watched this poor hang glider struggle to catch an updraft. We didn’t know where he started from, we only knew he was grounded on the side on the mountain and he had a companion (down in the lower right of the photo). there was a dog up there, too. I never bothered to change up to my 300mm zoom.

He did finally catch some air, but he came down – hard – shortly thereafter.

I don’t know the outcome of his adventure, but I suspect it was painful and not very successful.

AW! Back in Winnemucca. We stopped at a park where the old Navy Air Force Base used to be. And there was this sign. I remember when the Poke-n-Peek was founded. My best friend’s mom was one of the Catholic ladies who spear-headed the thrift store. And it’s still in business. Family friend, Norma, still works there. I don’t know if my best friend’s mom still does or not.

This used to be down at the park by the golf course. I can name the kids who vandalized it in the 1960’s. Back then, you could climb up into the cock pit.

Don and Murphy taking a break in the background.

The old WW2 tank. terry remembers climbing into it and manning the swivel. It was another one of those military displays that kids could climb on back in the 1960’s.

Winnemucca, Nevada. I can point out to you where I grew up. I only lived there for a short time in my life, but it seems like it possesses a part of my soul. Over in those brown mountains on the other side, is Water Canyon. We hiked up to Water Canyon from the house, sometimes. It was a couple of miles and a lot of hot sagebrush trails and watching for rattlesnakes. In my mind, I have a plethora of stories about Water Canyon, some with my friend Trudi and some with Lisa. And some with Terry.

And the mountain we are standing on – Winnemucca Mountain – has stories to tell, too. Trudi lived up there. She watched wild horses out her back window. There was a black stallion who led the little band of horses around those slopes.

We stopped in Winnemucca and visited people I barely remember. One woman turned and said, “Your mother used to sell Avon, didn’t she?”

What a strange memory.

Yes, she did.

And half-way back to Reno, I noticed this Murphy nose-print on the window.

It looks sort of like Heckle or Jeckle.

I started laughing and had to explain to my husband and brother how Murphy had created “art” with his nose on the window.

I consider it a Sign.

My mother sent me a sign after she died: two crow feathers.

Now my dad has joined her and the dog painted a nose-art rendition of Heckle or Jeckle.

It’s a sign.

Either my parents are in Heaven or they are trapped in a bizarre world of old cartoons.

Read into it what you want.

I think my mom was telling me that she was happy that Dad finally learned how to dance in the wind.

🙂

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Our trip to see our newest grandchild was also a trip that brought closure to some pain in my life. I wasn’t seeking that closure, wasn’t even looking for it. I had accepted that grief was part of the season of life I am in, and I really was only looking forward to seeing (and holding) Korinne, Micah and Justin.

It was accidental that we had time to drive to Winnemucca to scatter Dad’s ashes. If U-Haul would have rented a trailer to us, we would have spent  the 4th of July sorting through boxes and loading the trailer. But U-Haul will not rent to anyone driving a Ford Explorer, so we were left with extra time on our hands. And extra time meant a private family disbursement of Dad’s ashes into the same winds that blow Mom’s ashes over the Santa Rosas.

As it happened, so much of the drive was on familiar roads, evoking memories of different times and seasons.

In 2009, when I made the drive along I-70 with my brother, I eyeballed the jewelry being sold by Native Americans at the scenic rest stops. I didn’t buy anything, just looked.

This trip, I looked and contemplated.

My mother loved these peddlers. She returned home from an adventure with family friends along I-70 and gushed about the jewelry she’d purchased from “an old Indian on top of the mountain.”

My mother spoke in words that invoked an image of a wrinkled, ancient, white-haired Navajo with arthritis in her knuckles, sitting cross-legged on the rock beside her blankets of silver and turquoise jewelry in the hot sun and blowing wind.

Most of the peddlers were much younger women. They sat in lawn chairs in the sparse shade, drank bottled water and kept coolers in their cars.

We pulled into a rest area on the way west to Nevada and I realized I had not purchased any jewelry in honor of my mom and her legendary old Indian woman. I really wanted to do that.

There was only one peddler at this rest stop, a woman with two black braids that fell down the front of her T-shirt. She looked to be about the same age as myself. She said nothing as I perused the goods. Some of it nice, some of it so-so. That’s how it is at all the rest areas, with all the peddlers: same stuff, but a little different.

There was also some pottery and I recalled seeing one of the other Indians at another rest area packing up the little bits of pottery. I probably wouldn’t have thought much of it, but this woman had something else out beside the pottery: Christmas ornaments in a Southwest Native American theme. Several were marked with a little sign, “horse hair pottery“.

Horses are something I have a hard time passing by.

I purchased a Christmas ornament.

It was a little spendy, but I knew that it was the gift my mother would have wanted me to pick out. I don’t know how I knew that, but I knew it. Jewelry would have been something she would have gone for, but she always urged each of us kids to forge our own way and there it was: a horse on a Christmas ornament decorated with horse hair.

“Do you want it wrapped?” she asked.

I followed her to her car and waited while she wrapped it in bubble wrap and placed it in a paper bag with little business cards.

She talked the entire time, telling me a story about her grandson and how she was worried about him. Her son and some woman had a child together, but they separated before the child was even born. The woman did not care for the child, didn’t hold him, just ignored him. The Tribal Council came to the grandmother and wanted her to step in and take the child.

She considered her life as a peddler and the long hours she spends on the mountain passes. Hot hours, cold hours. She determined it was not a good life for a baby and said no.

The council came back to her after a couple years. Please take the baby. So she did.

He did not know how to sit in the bathtub and play with water. He still drank from a bottle and did not know how to eat. He did not walk.

She put him in day care and had to leave the mountain every day at 4 in order to be back in town to pick him up. She taught him to splash in the bathtub.

Her son works as a well driller and travels to Wyoming. He sends the child’s mother $1,000.00 but the money is always gone by the second day and the child has nothing. Her son wants to raise his son.

She wants to keep the child from his real mother. Teach him to read, talk, laugh.

His name is Junior III, after his grandfather, Junior.

Other people came and wanted to buy from the woman, but she kept talking to me, telling me about this pain in her life, this sorrow that haunted her as she sat on the mountain, alone, peddling her wares.

Finally we were in the car and backing out. Don turned to me and said, “What was that all about? Suddenly you were her best friend.”

I don’t know. Kindred spirit. Maybe she knew I would remember. Maybe she knew I would look her in the eyes and listen without judgment. Maybe I didn’t treat her like a stranger, so she didn’t treat me like one.

I really don’t know.

But I will always think of and pray for Junior and his grandmother when I look at the ornament.

According to her business cards, the thin lines are from a horse’s mane and the thick lines are from the tail hairs. It is fired in a kiln and you can’t predict how the hair will melt onto the pottery. Every piece is unique.

Her name was Lora. She lives in Arizona some times and in Utah some times. Her business card gave me her phone number in both states and a PO Box address in both states.

And somehow, buying that Christmas ornament and listening to Lora’s story, I felt my mother’s spirit pass over and through me.

Just another little bit of closure.

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I don’t know if I should start this post with a disclaimer: I have never been to Burning Man or if I should start it with: This is what happens at Burning Man.

You can read the history on Burning Man here. It seems to me that I have known about it “forever”, but that isn’t true. However, it is so huge and iconic, that I am surprised when I mention Burning Man to someone and they don’t have a clue as to what I am talking about.

It is a huge hedonistic party on the Black Rock Desert that also strives to leave no trace of the party on the playa afterward. I respect Burning Man. I’m not sure I want to go (for several reasons, the most outstanding being the heat on the unshaded playa), but I love the costumes, the art, and the themes. In short, every year, I visit the Burning Man web site and browse the photos.

It’s a little like the Faerie Festival in Oregon, but considerably more well- known. Or maybe it’s like Oregon Country Fair. But more epic.

Since I have only been to the Faerie Festival (you can read about that here and follow the arrows to the other posts I wrote in 2008 – tons of photos!), I don’t have anything to compare it to.

I know Burning Man is epic. It has to be epic to produce art that is of a quality to make it into a museum. Art that is mobile and makes it into Harrah’s Auto Collection. Art that is – well, as my husband would say (as he rolls his eyes, “Jaci art”).

I appreciate Burning Man art.

I really appreciate Burning Man art.

And I hate to do this, but I am going to stoop to a slide show. These photos of the display at Harrah’s speak for themselves. You don’t need me to narrate. If you want to see the full image, click on the photo.

Just too much fun…

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I am sitting downstairs with Harvey, enjoying a quiet night without Don or Murphy. What do I do when Don is gone?

STEAL HIS PHOTOS.

He has some awesome ones. He was much busier with his camera than I was.

City of Rocks, Idaho

View from I-70 in Utah. Love the clouds!

Cactus shadows.

The Arkansas River from the Royal Gorge Bridge.

Rafters on the Arkansas River.

Kaci, Justin, Korinne’s stroller and me pausing to take in the view off of the Royal Gorge Bridge.

A very thirsty squirrel sneaking into the dog water.

“Oh, Hi Hooman! I just be gettin’ some waters to drink when those dumbo doggies isn’t lookin’. I be’s movin’ on now.”

I don’t know why I missed this lovely view point at Royal Gorge. Don, Levi and Justin walked over to it.

Justin!

Pike’s Peak Cog Railway – waiting for the train.

At the summit.

The Colorado Rockies.

Hello Marmot!

Waldo Canyon fire from Pike’s Peak.

Somebody was bored out of his little toddler mind on the ride back down the mountain.

Love these boys!

Who is that mad woman?

Ely on fire! It was further from town than it appears. Notice the clouds forming at the top of the column of smoke? It was starting to create its own weather system.

The three of us: Me, Terry and Dad. Mom was probably there, too, but we couldn’t see her.

Dad’s last dance. Mom always said he had two left feet, but I think he finally perfected his dance moves.

(Thank you, Donald, for unknowingly allowing me to use your photographs. I give you all the credit. Love, your wife.)

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(Name that song – only it’s a town in California)

Well, since U-Haul didn’t want our business because we own a Ford (and we left the KIA at home), we were left with some spare time on our hands.

My cousin, Val, drove over from California to see us and we all decided it would be fun to do something “touristy”: Harrah’s Auto Collection. I guess it’s called the National Automobile Museum, but I’ve always known it as Harrah’s.

Back in 1975 or maybe in 1977, I walked through the original museum: a huge warehouse full of old cars, parts, and more old cars. You couldn’t begin to absorb the enormity of the collection and after awhile all the old cars started looking the same and your feet started to hurt.

But the museum has been moved to a different location and only certain cars are on display, and all the replicas are stored elsewhere.

My husband had never been to Harrah’s. This was a real treat for him.

You’re allowed to take your camera in and snap as many photos as you want, just stay out of the displays (alarm system) and don’t put fingerprints on the cars! (I added that last bit)

There’s everything there and I couldn’t begin to snap photos of everything I fell in love with. This “horseless carriage” is a 1912 Baker. It was an Electric car (and you thought “”smart cars” were new technology)!

How about the 1921 Ford? Forerunner of the SUV. I like the picnic window and little canopy.

It became quite the little camp car with the tent extensions.

A little like this.

WHO doesn’t want to drive a 1925 Dusenburg??

Possibly my favorite (I love trucks): a 1937 REO.

A 1959 Scimitar. Lord! The brushed chrome! This car rivals the current crop of Yukons, Excursions, and what-nots with extra seats in back – and it has a lot more class. Probably doesn’t have the safety features, but, hey…

How about a 1961 Fiat? Isn’t that a crazy looking car?

A 1955 BSA Gold Star.

WAIT. I know that bike. That bike belongs to my cousin’s son, Tad. Tad set several land speed records with it at Bonneville Flats, the most recent being 104.745 mph.

Val reads one of the many plaques in the area where Tad’s motorcycle is (temporarily) on display at the museum.

That’s my cousin up in the upper left photo, “way back when”. Um, as in way back before her hair turned silver. In the lower left, Jerry (my cousin’s husband) and Tad embrace. We’re all pretty proud of Tad.

Terry, Don and Val admire the motorcycle.

There were so many cars and not enough space to post a photo of every single one of them (if I had taken a photo of every one, which I didn’t).

This was Elvis’.

I took it for my boss, who is a huge Elvis fan.

1973 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe.

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I have to back up a little now.

The only reason we camped on the Colorado River the second time was because we were going to Reno, and the only reason we were going to Reno was because we wanted to rent a U-Haul trailer to haul my meager inheritance home. My books have been stored in my cousin’s warehouse for the past year.

But more on that later.

We saw lots of smoke on the drive from the Colorado River to our next campsite in Nevada. Lots of smoke.

There was this plume of smoke rising over Scipio, Utah. It was burning on the far side of I-15 which we had to take south to the Hwy 50 junction to Delta. Coming back north into Delta, we saw the same fire was burning on the Delta side of that small range of mountains.

South of Ely: this didn’t look good. I was trying to guess where this one was long before we could see Ely.

It was gaining momentum by the minute.

It was out in the sagebrush flats between Ely and McGill, and was barreling toward the Schell Creek Mountains. We were in Ely for about an hour, eating lunch and buying ice. The fire was on everyone’s mind as there are a number of homes out there. But it went uphill (as fires often do) and into the pinyon and junipers. That plume could be seen almost all the way to Eureka, 89 miles away.

We drove through Eureka and across the straight stretches of Hwy 50. I told Don about a late-night potty stop we made in May of last year in the deepest dark of a moonless night. I didn’t write about it because it was just that: a late-night potty stop and it was very, very dark. The campground is at a petroglyph site just out of Austin. Usually, we camp at Bob Scott CG, up on the mountain, but I was certain this other CG was worth our time.

I lived in Ely for four years and I’ve been along that stretch of Hwy 50 countless times, but I have never been to Hickison Petroglyphs – except for that stumble-in-the-dark stop with my brother, Chrystal and AJ. I figured as much as we love rocks, what the heck?

I did warn Don that the road is a little wash-board-y. But it is a short drive in and we still had plenty of daylight. Best of all, there was a short period of time when we had the campground to ourselves and Murphy could run around off- leash.

Most of the little garbage cans were full, but we were pulling in on a Monday night and we figured that the BLM had not had time to send out a crew to clean up the weekend trash. The outhouses (there were several!) weren’t anything to crow about, but they didn’t have that incredible aroma all the ones along the Colorado River had. And the campground was FREE.

Yep, you get trash pick-up and pit toilets and a clean campground, and it’s all paid for by your tax dollars, no additional fees. There’s a little trail (the brochures were missing from the kiosk) winding through the rocks where the ancient Native Americans carved their signatures and art work.  So you get something to do plus a clean camp plus pit toilets plus trash pick-up.

That’s important to know because when we signed the little guest book at the trailhead, we found this note inside the guest book box:

“Bathrooms are a mess + no TP even empty rolls Boo Hoo! Please do not disturb our packrats in the outhouses! They’re harmless.”  A Reno telephone number was written on the bottom of the note.

WUSS.

This Nevada girl is laughing at the stupidity of your note. Read my post: the pit toilets didn’t have that unpumped aroma. There’s trash pick-up. It’s FREE. And seriously? Your biggest beef was the pack-rats? Or the lack of TP? Go pee behind a tree.

Pack-rats are native animals. They’ve been a part of the camping experience for… Oh, hell, I remember pack-rats in the barn at Mahoney Ranger Station when I was two years old. They really are harmless (unless they’re caught in a leg-hold trap in the barn and you’re not supposed to be in the barn and you run and tell your dad that there’s a pack-rat in the trap and he comes and finds you in the barn and… you get your tail whooped). They steal shiny things. And most of their nests were in the rocks, anyway – it was only pack-rat poop in the bathrooms.

Get over it. And if you’re camping in Nevada, you should be packing your own toilet paper, anyway. And water.

Sometimes I am amazed at my lack of empathy.

We did walk the very easy path around the petroglyphs. Most of it is wheel-chair accessible (a pushed wheel chair, not a motorized one). Here and there, some modern Idiot thought he (or she) could improve upon the ancient art work and there were pitiful attempts to carve names into the rock by drunken local yahoos (or tourists), but the petroglyphs are deep and ancient.

I didn’t take my camera with me when we walked the little loop. I don’t know why. I don’t think I was expecting much. I took photos in the morning before we left and missed the good lighting. My bad.

We had a perfect view of the full moon.

The campground filled up overnight. A lot of people pull off the highway and seek refuge there, but not a lot of them hike out the trails. Too bad: they miss a little treasure in the Nevada wilderness.

We passed Bob Scott CG on our way into Austin: it looked pretty full (still) at 8:00AM.

We drove on into Reno and to my brother’s place without incident.

The bad news was that we didn’t look very closely at U-Haul’s website when we planned our trip. Well, I take that back: I can’t find it but my brother swears it is on the website.

U-Haul will not rent a trailer to anyone driving a Ford Explorer.

Apparently, about 12 years ago when Ford put faulty Firestone tires on their Ford Explorers, U-Haul was involved in some sort of dispute. 12 years later (and different tires, suspension design and so on), U-Haul will still not rent to anyone driving a Ford Explorer.

I can’t find it on the web page. I even typed in Ford Explorer. So – send me the link. I really want to see it. (Terry??)

So my inheritance was left in my cousin’s warehouse until such time as we can drive my KIA Sportage down to Reno to pull a trailer back up here because we were driving a 2006 Ford Explorer and U-Haul will not rent to us.

What.Ever.

So we scattered Dad’s ashes and then we spent time with my cousins. And tomorrow, I’ll post a little about Harrah’s Auto Collection.

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I’m skipping ahead a little.

On July 4th, 2012, we took a little drive from Reno to Winnemucca, and from Winnemucca to Hinckey Summit in the Santa Rosa Mountains.

My mom’s ashes were scattered on Hinckey Summit by my brother some time after her death in 1995. Terry and I decided that we should reunite our parents, and the 4th of July was a very good day to do it.

Terry drove, Don sat in the passenger seat and I took a back seat with Murphy. I don’t remember the conversations: I spent much of my time staring out at the passing scenery, remembering bits and pieces of my childhood along the Nevada portion of the California Trail. The Humboldt Sink. Lovelock. Ryepatch Reservoir and the innumerable times I weaseled my way into a Thompson Family Outing with my best friend, just to hang out on the barren shores of the reservoir, basking in the sun and imagining the rolling hills as ancient dragons, now sleeping.

My best friend’s dad was a life-jacket Nazi. I remember being bundled up in an orange life jacket as we sped across the water in the Thompson’s motor boat to meet up with Lisa’s Reno cousins. Lisa’s mom always made something called ‘Shipwreck Stew’ what had beans, hamburger and the tomato-y taste of catsup in it.

The old rock and gem tourist trap outside of Winnemucca that my dad would never stop at – because it was a tourist trap.

Alkali, sagebrush, dust devils, geysers. And north from Winnemucca: the Humboldt River and it’s endless horse-shoe curves turning into one another, the Kearns’ Ranch (where Butch Cassidy and Sundance Kid supposedly swapped out horses when they robbed the bank in Winnemucca), sand dunes and barbed wire. Bill Pogue was buried out there, somewhere.

You cannot capture a childhood in a single post. The “ditch” that ran in front of our home on E. Minor Street and the milkweed that grew wild. All the Monarch butterflies that laid eggs that hatched into caterpillars that we raised in jars and watched turn into their chrysalis form, and eventually into Monarchs butterflies. The feel of a Monarch butterfly on your hand as its wings dry and it gets ready to fly.

The ditch has been covered over and lawn planted where the milkweed grew. It was 1968 and I wanted to go lay down in front of the Caterpillars and protest, but my father wouldn’t allow it. “They paved Paradise and put up a parking lot.”

Trudi and Carolyn, my alternate best friends who now live in Heaven with my parents.

The turn to Paradise Valley. There used to be a bar and corrals at Paradise Junction: my parents would stop there for a beer while my sister and I played on the faded wood rails of the corrals. Sometimes they held a rodeo inside those corrals. All gone, now.

My sister and I, wiggling on the back seat, trying to be the first to see the white church steeple that meant we were coming near to Paradise Valley. A tree has grown up in front of the steeple now, and you don’t see it until you are actually in town. It’s the Catholic Church where they held “Kitty Kissings” when I was four years old (catechism). We lived in the Forest Service house right next door.

There’s a “swimming pool” in the yard: a rock-and-mortar structure made to hold water to fill the tanks of water trucks used to fight fires. Once upon a time, my dad’s favorite USFS bronc was penned in the swimming pool: Smokey was 17 years old and they were still afraid he’d jump the rails of the corral.

From Paradise Valley, we took the dirt road up to Hinckey Summit. And at the top, we parked and walked out to a rocky outcrop overlooking all the Santa Rosas and all of the alfalfa fields and sagebrush flats below.

“Do you want to say anything?” Terry asked.

“Just” ‘See you when I get there!'”

Then Don and I stood upwind while Terry scattered Dad’s ashes.

And then the wind turned.

By the time Terry was done, I was covered in Dad’s ashes. It was funny. It was so much like my dad.

We waved at people driving by and then we drove on down to Lye Creek Ranger Station. The gate was unlocked, so we drove in. Once upon a time, we were Forest Ranger kids who camped on the land around the RS. We had to stomp on little mice when our parents shook out the mattresses from the house.

I cried. My dad scolded me. But I could not kill baby mice.

My dad serenaded a good friend here one night. It was one of those group camps with everyone from either the four-wheel club or the square dance club. All the adults were several sheets to the wind. And my dad started a rendition of “Good Night Irene” to send our family friend (Irene) to bed. He was terribly off-key.

And my mother threatened him with death if he should start in “Roll Me Over in the Clover“.  I secretly hoped he would sing the song so I could know *why* my mother didn’t want me to hear it.

Terry and I remember different things. He said he didn’t remember being worried about rattlesnakes when we were on Hinckey Summit. I remember carrying a “snake stick” to rattle the sagebrush with and I remember my mom worrying about Terry exploring “Chocolate Mountain” with his friend when rattlers were active. We both remember the mice babies and me turning into a puddle of tears. We both know where the sheepherder’s cave is above Lye Creek RS (hidden now by brush). We remember the cabins and the people who owned them, the camp-outs with the families we grew up with and the petroglyphs.

I remember a trip out to the petroglyphs with the four-wheel club. We drove over Hinckey Summit and over Buckskin Pass. Somewhere along the way, we saw a mule deer doe that was running all out. She hit the barbed wire fence and it threw her back like a boomerang. My dad stopped and we stared, bated breath and all. The doe recovered, shook herself off and ran at the fence again. This time, she knew where it was and she jumped over it.

I was probably 12.

All those thoughts assailed my brain and more. We drove back to Reno and I thought some more.

But in the end, it was the swirl of Dad’s ashes on the same rocks where Terry scattered Mom’s ashes so many years ago. They’re together now, Mom and Dad. Lovers separated only by death and time. One last step in their dance, one last step in our journey through grief.

Today, they would have been married for 59 years. And today they are together, dancing on the peaks of the Santa Rosa Mountains overlooking Paradise Valley and Winnemucca, Nevada, where most of their happy memories were.

Happy Anniversary, Mom & Dad.

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We finally had to leave Colorado. Dang, but that was hard!

Hwy 24 to Woodland Park was still closed and Don still didn’t want to drive around Denver, so we made this circuitous drive down to Cañon City and then north through Buena Vista and Leadville to I-70. It was really a pretty drive and not a lot of traffic, but it took a lot of time.

Our goal was to make it into Utah to camp along the Colorado River one more time, for “old time’s sake”.

Flashback: 1984.

Arwen was an infant and we were still “newlyweds”. (photo along the Columbia River, 1984) (Extra points if you notice the jowls on that baby!)

Don’s older brother was living in Rifle, CO, and we’d driven down to spend a week with him. On our return trip to Oregon, we cut across Utah along Hwy 50 to Ely, NV, to see my folks. It was early in the morning when we reached the sign to U-128, marked a “scenic byway” on our map. We weren’t certain it was paved, but we decided that since it would take us down close to Moab and by Arches National Park, it was worth the risk.

Oh, to be young and stupid again! Nowadays, I’d say “be sure of your road first” (but I know I’d be lying: we haul extra water, tires (plural now, thanks to Les Schwab in Burley, ID), food and gear).

There was a very cool suspension bridge (the historic Dewey Bridge, destroyed by a brush fire in 2008 – you can read the blurb here.) We didn’t take a photo of the bridge.

The road was paved all the way through and we met a total of three other vehicles (possibly three, no more). It was scenic, secluded, beautiful – truly a hidden gem.

Flash forward. 2012.

Oh. My.

First, the rocks haven’t changed much. Second, the number of people has increased in a mind-boggling manner. Third, nevermind my rants about some of the “visual aids” offered by the Moab tourist industry (or whomever it is that straps airplane landing gear to their rig and drives slowly up the first five miles of the canyon from Moab, lighting up the same rocks you were staring at under the searing hot sun). Apparently the latter is a free “attraction” designed to “enhance” your experience of the area.

I don’t even know how to begin this. We’ve been back-country camping for decades, most of it in places where there’s no trash pick-up, recycling, or even a pit toilet. We haul everything in and we haul it all out again. And no one has ever driven up the road to shine lights on the canyon walls after the sun set, “just because”. It’s just plain weird.

So we sat and made fun of whoever was driving (painfully slow) up U-128 and back down, shining a beacon on all the hot rocks above us. Sorry if you’ve been there and enjoyed the light show: we felt like it was an intrusion on our evening. But at least it was free.

I don’t remember all the BLM Campgrounds dotting the landscape in 1984. There may have been one or two (we weren’t camping, so it wasn’t on my radar), but I know of a certainty that the “dude” condos and all the rafting expedition outfits were not there. The Byway was deserted.

It was freaking busy in 2012. Headlights flashed by, the rumble of tires on the road, the little paved bicycle path, the full campground and the odorous pit toilet we camped by were all stark reminders that it was not 1984.

In 1984, I never dreamed my kids would actually grow up and move away from me. I was the kid and I was the one who moved away from her parents.

This has nothing to do with anything and yet has everything to do with this post. In 1984, I turned 28. In 2012, my daughter turned 28. Half my life ago, we drove down U-128 for the first time. Where did half my life go?

ANYway – because a post should be coherent and should have a theme, we decided to drive back down U-128 to camp in one of the more remote campgrounds on our way back through Utah.

We were going back through Utah because we had to go to Reno. We were not going to stop in Ely because my parents are no longer living. In 1984, we stopped in Ely to visit my folks. My dad had just retired from the Forest Service. My mom was contemplating retiring from the BLM.

In 1984, we drove across a single lane plank suspension bridge. In 2012, we crossed the Colorado River on a 2-lane concrete bridge and looked with sadness on the remnants of the historic Dewey Bridge.

In 1984, we met three other rigs – at the most – and followed no one. In 2012… well, it was just busy.

1984

2012.

That canopy was Don’s Christmas present.

2012

1984.

We didn’t even walk up to this in 2012. There were too many people, it was too hot, and we had Murphy in the back of the rig. But I wanted to toss it in to show that we really have been all the way through Arches National Park at some point in time.

And just for fun:

1984. I was almost 28.

I wouldn’t even begin to attempt that pose 28 years later!

Tomorrow – skipping ahead a little to celebrate my parent’s 59th Wedding Anniversary.

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It was nice in Colorado Springs but everything was overshadowed by the fire.

It was growing by leaps and bounds al the while we were traveling. My last voice mail from Levi had evacuation numbers at 20,000, but the evening we drove into Colorado Springs, the fire was gaining momentum.

They eventually evacuated 36,000. We managed to drive in at the same time they were working on those last numbers. We couldn’t decide if the glow was from the sun beyond the smoke or flames. Either way, it was gut-wrenching to think of all the people and homes going up in smoke.

Ashes the size of Murphy’s paws fell into Levi’s backyard. We looked at those and thought of the house they must have come from and the asphalt shingles gone up in flames.

The smoke curled into the sky. The C-130’s flew overhead. You could taste it in the air.

In the end, it was just “stuff”. Belongings can be replaced. Memories are in the mind. You felt for the people, worried about the livestock and pets, and reflected on what you would do under the same circumstances.

Levi said several times, “It’s just STUFF.” Or something close to that. You have your life, let the rest go.

When we were waiting for the train at Pike’s Peak Cog Railway, I spoke with a woman working in the smaller gift shop, on the upper level. She told me that many of the Cog RR employees were also evacuees. She also told me that she had a friend who lived in the evacuation area but she had not been able to locate her friend. She’d heard that one person had been found dead, and she hoped it was not her friend.

I hoped so, too.

In the end, 346 home burned. 2 people died. 36,000 were evacuated. 29 square miles burned. Reverse 9-1-1 did not work as well as “it should have” but Colorado Springs certainly did work as well as it should have.

I can only imagine the nightmare of evacuating 36,000 people anywhere within the Portland metro area. We couldn’t do it. It would be mayhem, rioting, anger.

Colorado Springs maintained their sense of humor. They had minor traffic glitches (ha! It was like my DAILY commute). They lost two people. They herded cattle through downtown to safety.

The President of the United States came to speak while we were out sight-seeing. Kaci kept trying to find a video of his speech online. In the end, it was the same as every other past president in the face of a crisis: a day late and a dollar short. He impressed no one. He did appear “ready to work” in his rolled-up sleeves and casual white-collar look (thank you Michelle Obama for dressing your husband), but I don’t know if anyone really bought it. We didn’t.

But there have been very very few presidents who could step up to the plate in the time of crisis while looking like they are a part of the working class. I do not disparage him because of who he is but because of the office he holds. Just for once it would be nice to see a president cry. Or see a president covered in the ashes of the aftermath, working to remedy to situation. A president in a little white face mask pulling off lath from homes buried in the floods of Lake Pontchartrain. A president buried in the ash from Mount Saint Helens.

Our rig looked like we had driven through the ask of Mt. St. Helens.

Colorado Springs: we hope for your recovery and we pray for your people. I was amazed at the spirit and resilience of your people.

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My husband turned 55 when we were in Colorado Springs. We rode the historic Pike’s Peak Cog Railway for his birthday. We were very lucky that it was even open, but life was starting to return to parts of Colorado Springs. You still couldn’t drive out Hwy 24 past Manitou Springs, but there was some hope on the horizon.

Levi really wanted to hike up the mountain with his dad (I think it was a form of delayed revenge for some of the hikes we took him on when he was a kid), but he settled for riding the train up. His father loves trains so this was pretty special.

There was a little waiting around with the toddlers, which is always entertaining.

Justin wasn’t interested in the history or the how-it-works, he just wanted to see the choo-choo and to ride on it. Someone has told him the story of the Little Engine That Could because his mantra for the day was, “I think I can… I can! I can!”

“Is that train here yet?”

This child is dangerous! He tried to climb out the window of the moving train several times. He’s slippery. I do not know how my son hangs on to him.

But while we were waiting for our ride, he was my buddy. And he wanted that train there, NOW.

You start at 6571 feet in elevation, which is about the same elevation as Ely, Nevada, where I went to high school. That’s also about 6,271 feet higher than where I currently live. The train climbs to the peak at 14, 110 feet: nosebleed level. Quite a ways above Timberline (approximately 11,500 feet) and up into “Altitude sickness” level. You aren’t supposed to take infants up to that elevation but no one mentioned this to us as we loaded Korinne into the train with us.

It’s OK – she handled the sudden change in altitude better than I did, and I was drinking plenty of fluids. I experienced a mild case of dizziness at the summit. Whoo! Kind of like when you get off of a merry-go-round too suddenly.

Several sections of the railway are on a 25% grade, which is why they turned to the unique cog system. The tracks look normal but going up the middle of them is a unique “rack” rail that the gear under the train (the cog) catches to pull itself up (or slow itself down on the descent). The train doesn’t move very fast, but that’s the beauty of the ride: you get to see everything!

We were stopped when I took the photo of the butterfly. You get to stop and wait while the other train goes up or down past you. Our ride was the last one of the day, so we only had to stop on the ascent for the descending train ahead of us.

I wanted to know more about the flora, but our guide had a rehearsed spiel that included a number of lame jokes and a lot of history, but nothing on the wildflowers, birds or trees. That omission was unfortunate because we spied Bristlecone pines (some of these can be as old as 2,000 years) and there was an amazing array of spring wildflowers as we entered the Timberline zone (spring comes late at that altitude). Unfortunately for my camera, we were moving when we passed the pretty purples, blues, reds and yellows and they petered out long before we reached the summit, which is quite barren of plant life.

I think this was Levi’s favorite part: the building that looks like it is leaning, but it is the train on the tracks and an optical illusion. The building is level.

We managed to scatter a herd of Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep on the ascent, and being on the uphill side allowed me to get some great shots of their flight over the rocks.

Two ewes and three kids.

(This is a little like Hidden Pictures!)

Three ewes and one kid (can you see it?)

Three ewes and TWO kids (one got confused and came back down, I think).

Three ewes, one kid and one ewe butt.

Three ewes and two kids.

I swear these are in sequence. I have no idea how the numbers kept changing when the sheep should have been disappearing over the rocks. Those darn kids! Playing when they should be running!

My son’s second-favorite view: when the world suddenly drops away from the train. You’re looking down the mountain and out at the Rocky Mountains. It is pretty darn spectacular.

This is the only photo I took at the top. Katharine Lee Bates ascended Pike’s Peak in 1895 and was so inspired that she wrote a poem she titled “Pike’s Peak”. The poem was later set to music composed by Samuel A. Ward.

You know the words. We call the song “America, the Beautiful.”

Our time on the summit was strange. We had twenty minutes. Don wanted to walk the summit and take photos. I had a three-year old buddy. Kaci had a hungry infant. Levi had Micah. Justin took me by the hand and we wandered around (I actually got dizzy and fell, the extent of my Altitude sickness experience. More like oxygen deprived ditzy grandma stuff). We even made a foray into the women’s restroom so Justin could relive himself (he’s gonna kill me when he’s old enough to read that!). Mostly, we tried walking uphill and chanting, “I think I can, I think I can, I think I can… I can! I can!”

Micah was so bored by the time we headed down! We switched places with other tourists so we could see a different view from the train, so we were now on the down-hill side. Micah was unimpressed: he only wanted to climb out that window.

“I’m Joe Cool! Set me FREE!”

And – score with a nice telephoto lens: the Yellow-bellied Marmot came out to play! Ain’t he cool?

All in all, it was a sweet ride and a perfect way to celebrate Don’s 55th birthday.

 

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